NOS 36-Hole ALEX Linus-21 (700c) Rear Wheel w/126mm Shimano 105 UniGlide Freehub

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New-Old-Stock 36-Hole ALEX Linus-21 (700c) Rear Wheel w/126 mm Shimano 105 UniGlide 6/7-Speed Freehub
Thank you for your interest in this item and please visit our store for other offerings. We have very reasonable shipping terms and combine orders to save money (for customers) on shipping costs. We also maintain customer friendly return/refund/exchange policies.


 

 










Product Description:

Listing Update…We are getting some questions from customers about the pricing of our limited inventory in this particular rear wheel. More specifically, some customers have noted we sell a very similar freehub…a Shimano 105 (Model FH-1050) in a 32-hole model for $99.99, which is not much of a discount compared to this complete wheel. As a result, some customers are asking about the apparent inconsistency and what is wrong with these rear wheels. The answer is we bought those aforementioned rear hubs and these rear wheels from different vendors at slightly different wholesale costs, which explains why the retail pricing is relatively close. I understand there is a greater cost difference when considering the shipping charges for each respective item, but I still wanted to clarify that both offerings are first quality and retail pricing is primarily a function of our wholesale cost for each item in this particular case.

Original Listing…
This offering is for a new-old-stock ALEX Linus-21 aluminum alloy 700c rear wheel with 36 holes (w/o eyelets) and a Shimano 105 (6/7-speed) UniGlide freehub that still spins fairly well. This is a decent quality wheel and probably somewhat of a mix-n-match offering relating to the vintage of the component pieces. More specifically, the Shimano 105 (Model FH-1050) freehub dates back to the 80’s and my guess is the ALEX rim is at least 10 years newer (so a likely 90’s production rim). I don’t believe this “mix” of parts creates any problems with respect to functional performance, but it’s still probably worth noting this is a fairly unique wheel. Some technical specifications include the following…


  • Rim type: 36-hole clincher w/double wall and schrader valve



  • Rim size (diameter): 700c (or 622 mm)



  • Rim width (inner/outer): 17 mm / 21.5 mm



  • Rim height: 18 mm



  • Spokes: 14 gauge (straight) measuring 2.0 mm (diameter)



  • Spoke pattern (lacing): Conventional “cross-3” pattern



  • Rear hub design: 36-hole splined freehub compatible with non Dura-Ace UniGlide 6/7-speed cassettes



  • Rear hub spacing: 126 mm locknut-to-locknut dimensions with hollow (quick release) axle and Shimano branded skewer



  • Weight (Park hanging scale): 2 lbs 11 oz (or 1.22 kgs)



  • Other notes: This wheel includes a safety groove in each sidewall braking surface to help assess rim wear over time. It’s our understanding a rim with these grooves is considered unsafe to ride when the safety groove is no longer visible (on account of repeated braking that eventually wears down the sidewalls of a rim). Please also pay particular attention the the freehub compatibility notes above…as this is a Shimano 6/7-speed UniGlide freehub. As a result, there are few compatible cassette options…and they are limited to Shimano 6/7-speed UniGlide non Dura-Ace model cassettes with the larger (in diameter) threaded lockring/sprocket.


As noted above, this is a decent quality rear 700c wheel in new-old-stock condition. We especially like the double-wall design, which tends to strengthen a wheel (although to what degree is subject to some debate). We also like the old (cup-n-cone) style Shimano hub…a design that does not seal as well as some of today’s cartridge bearing hubs (so will require periodic servicing)…but a design that still ranks high relating to strength and durability. 

A wholesale lot of wheels came to us in crates with some divider material between each wheel (but not as much as we would’ve liked…especially when considering the lengthy boat trip from Europe). As a result, we do see some shopwear (scuffs and scratches) on this wheel, but functionally we believe it’s fine (and this includes the Shimano freehub, which still spins fairly well).

Supplemental discussion.conventional (older stock) wheel design…
Our expertise with regards to wheels is really no better than an amateur or enthusiast. Although, we still wanted to share a few thoughts and observations with respect to wheels based on our limited experience. This discussion is probably best characterized as only providing basic information, but expectantly some folks still find the information beneficial.


  • Rim: Double-wall rims have a tendency to be stronger (although to what degree is frequently debated…and subject to other factors like rim design and lacing), because there is an additional interior wall connected to the sidewalls. Single-wall rims are usually lighter and not as strong/durable, because they do not have the added interior support noted in a double-wall rim. Taller/deeper rims have a tendency to be more aerodynamic, but the trade-off is they are generally stiffer. We measure the depth of a rim by taking a rim height measurement…so the higher this number, the greater the rim depth. The number of spoke holes contributes to the strength of a wheel…with more spokes generally resulting in a stronger wheel. There can be some weight savings with rims designed to accommodate fewer spokes, but the savings is usually minimal, because thicker/heavier rims are generally needed to compensate for fewer spokes. Good quality rims will also include eyelets at spoke holes to reinforce this area of the rim against cracking/failure when the wheel is under stress. Additionally, narrower rims are spec’d with narrower tires that usually need to be inflated to a higher pressure. This too generally results in a faster wheel with less rolling resistance, but the trade-off is a harsher ride.



  • Spokes: The size of a spoke is generally specified relating to it’s wire gauge. The lower the wire gauge, the greater the spoke diameter. As a result, rims built with spokes having a lower wire gauge are generally going to produce stronger wheels. Additionally, spokes machined with a uniform wire gauge are referred to as straight gauge, Whilst spokes machined with multiple wire gauges (generally a lower gauge/thicker wire at the ends and a higher gauge/thinner wire in the middle) are referred to as butted spokes. The latter provides benefits similar to those realized with butted frame tubes. More specifically, the thicker wire at the spoke ends improves strength at the high stress areas of a wheel. Whilst the thinner wire in the middle provides modest weight savings and some added resiliency against direct/localized stress on a wheel. In other words, a thinner wire gauge at the middle of a spoke allows for some added flex in a wheel, which permits some distribution of localized stress to neighboring spokes. This effect is subtle, but appears to have some merit in reducing the likelihood of rims cracking around spoke holes.



  • Spoke pattern (lacing): Conventional spoke patterns are labeled according to the number of times a spoke crosses other spokes connected to the same flange on a hub. For example, a “cross-3” pattern is one of the most common among conventional (old stock) wheels and describes a wheel where each spoke “crosses” three other spokes on it’s way from the rim to the hub. This conventional spoke pattern is also referred to as a semi-tangent pattern, because spokes generally leave/enter the flange area of a hub at (or near) a tangent. Higher cross rates/numbers generally result in a wheel that effectively handles the twisting forces generated from low gear pedaling at high effort or the heavy use of hub brakes. A “cross-0” pattern (also known as radial lacing) is where spokes enter/exit a hub flange at a near perpendicular angle. As a result, no spokes cross each other when lacing in a radial pattern. This allows for shorter spokes and a slightly lighter wheel, but there are some strength/build issues associated with radial lacing that generally limits this pattern to front wheels only (and again, this discussion is focused primarily on the conventional/older stock wheels).


I understand we have only begun to touch on wheel design with the above comments, but expectantly the basic information is a good starting point for some folks in the beginning stages of shopping for wheels.




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Note to domestic customers regarding oversized package shipping…
For domestic packages, United Parcel Service (UPS) generally offers the lowest ground shipping rates for oversized packages (frames, wheels, etc.) in the continental US. Our experience also indicates this service is generally more timely than the similarly priced USPS Parcel Post ground service. For these reasons, We will be able to list UPS standard ground service as the first domestic shipping option. We will be able to also include USPS Parcel Post ground service and USPS Priority Mail service as options, as these USPS services are usually less expensive domestic options outside the continental US (i.e., Alaska, Hawaii and Puerto Rico). It’s also worth noting if cost is not as much of an issue, then USPS Priority Mail service is generally the most timely of the domestic shipping options. 

Note to international customers regarding oversized package shipping…
International shipping requirements vary for larger packages (including size limitations from country to country). As a result, international customers should contact us before purchasing larger items (frames, wheels, etc.). We are then able to research shipping options to determine if we are able to ship a particular oversized item to your country and then provide an accurate shipping quote. This way We will be able to avoid any confusion or misunderstanding with respect to international shipping of oversized packages.

Note to international customers regarding customs…
We also apologize to those that feel their country import taxes, duties and brokerage fees are excessive. As a small US business, we are required by customs’ laws to declare each order as a retail sale. Additionally, the declared order value must be equal to total store purchases and/or winning auction bids (less any shipping costs, as these are not considered in the declared value). As a result, each customer will be responsible for paying his/her own country taxes, duties and brokerage fees, which will be collected upon delivery. Again, we apologize for these additional costs, but we cannot come up with the money for the penalties and fines that come with breaking customs’ laws…so we have to strictly abide by them.

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